How They Are Made
What it Takes
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| Step 1 – Get a Blank The first thing I need is the "blank". What is a blank? A blank is a piece of materiel you use to make the pen out of. A blank can be made from wood, acrylic, Corean, or a number of other materials. The majority of my pens are made from exotic wood. The blank will usually be ¾" x ¾" and around 5" long. You can purchase pre-cut blanks from most of the larger catalog companies. One of my favorite places to get blanks is at Griffin Exotic Wood and my local Woodcraft store. Or, they can be cut on a table or band saw from wood in your shop. A band saw is ideal for cutting blanks from expensive wood because its small kerf (blade width) wastes less wood. |
Step 2 – Cut the Blanks |
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Step 3 – Drill the Blanks Next I identify the center of the blank for drilling by using a pen maker’s center drilling vice which also holds the blank while drilling. I have to be sure to use the correct size drill bit for the pen and that my drill press table is perfectly perpendicular to my drill bit. It is very important that I drill the blank accurately. I drill slowly and pull the bit out often to remove chips. It is very easy to ruin a blank by drilling too fast. I have found that a parabolic flute bit is excellent for expelling the chips. |
Drilling the Blank |
Step 4 – Glue the Blanks Now I'm ready to glue the brass tubes into the blanks. I test fit the tubes to ensure that they slide in easily. I rough the outside of the blanks up with a fine grit sandpaper to remove tarnish and ensure proper bonding. I use either CA (cyanoacrylate) glue or epoxy. Then I put a few drops of my glue in the end of the blank. I let it run to the other end while turning it to spread it out on the inside the slide the tubes into the blank and set them on wax paper to dry. |
Gluing the Blank |
Step 5 – Square the Ends If the ends are not perfectly square, the pen will show gaps and holes where the blank meets the fittings. The easiest way I have found to square the ends is with a pen mill set. |
| Step 6 – Turn the Blanks After the glue has had time to dry, I assemble the blanks on the mandrel with the proper bushings. Different size bushings are used for different style pen kits. I tighten; - but do not over-tighten the nut on the mandrel. Next I secure the mandrel in my lathe and position my tool rest as close to the blanks as I can without making contact. Then I turn the blanks by hand to ensure they will not contact the lathe. |
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| I put on my safety equipment and get ready to turn! Different wood turners will use different techniques but I will use a 3/4 " gouge to bring the blanks to within a 1/16" of the bushings (Being careful not to go too far!) I reposition the tool-rest closer to the blanks and switch to a skew chisel to finish off the blanks. |
| Step 7 – Sanding the Blank At this point I begin sanding the blanks with sandpaper. I usually start with 150 grit and advance to 240 grit; 320 grit, and 400 grit to accomplish a smooth fine finish. After this I use micro-mesh which is a nine step process starting with 1500 grit, and going all the way up 12,000 grit. |
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| Step 8 – Finish the Blank There are many different pen finishes available on the market. I use Mylands Friction Polish, which is applied while the lathe is spinning. I always apply three coats of friction polish to my pens. |
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| Step 9 – Assemble the pen To assemble my pens I use what is called a “pen press”. The pen press allows me to effortlessly press parts with up to 300 pounds of pressure. At this point I often refer to the pen kit instructions; especially if the pen type is new to me. |
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| Step 10 – Admire my Craftsmanship I now have a beautiful pen, a pen that I made! If you order one and plan to give it to someone as a gift, a pen box is an excellent way to dress up and display these handmade pens. |
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